Old meets new in this eccentric hipster haven with a rich and vibrant cultural history.

VAMONDE

Essential East Austin

Legendary jazz and blues venue steeped in history.

This historic music establishment was founded on VJ Day in 1945 by Johnny Holmes, a local booking agent and band manager who also owned a hamburger stand in the neighborhood. He christened his new place the Victory Grill to celebrate the triumphant​ ending of World War II.

​At the time, the country was still racially segregated. By establishing the Victory Grill in the historically African American neighborhood of East Austin, Holmes provided a much-needed entertainment spot for black soldiers returning from the war as well as musicians and patrons. At first little more than a lean-to using the front porch as a stage, the Victory Grill hosted African American musicians and served food and drinks to the people who came to listen. With all that talent and good taste on display, the Victory Grill soon outgrew its humble beginnings and expanded to a larger building next door. The new indoor cafe and the "Kovac Room" performance area drew ever-larger crowds.

The Victory Grill soon became one of the most popular spots on the Chitlin' Circuit, a loose association of clubs in the segregated South and Midwest. The Chitlin' Circuit provided  employment and entertainment for African-Americans who were not allowed by law in clubs reserved for whites only. By opening the Victory Grill, Holmes filled a big void by giving  east side residents a place to perform and enjoy.  

He also solidified the Victory Grill's place in history by hosting a wide range of blues and jazz legends. Over the years, acts such as Louis Armstrong, B.B. King, Ike and Tina Turner, James Brown, Etta James, Billie Holiday, and Chuck Berry played here. The venue became so popular during its heyday, patrons often spilled out of the club onto the neighboring streets.

For the better part of three decades, the Victory Grill was a hub for east side entertainment, along with the many businesses that opened alongside it. Throughout the 50s, the Victory Grill remained a popular spot to see the jazz and blues, but its audience started changing. University of Texas students, soldiers from Fort Hood and Austinites from other neighborhoods eventually found their way to East Austin and the Kovac Room, joining its legion of fans. The crowds inside the Victory Grill grew increasingly diverse.

But just as segregation helped build the club, desegregation put an end to the Chitlin' Circuit and eventually, the Victory Grill. With access to all clubs now, musicians and patrons flocked to new venues beyond the east side. Many people in the community left for other neighborhoods once they were no longer forced to stay in the area. 

East Austin eventually fell victim to urban blight, and the Victory Grill was on the decline. By the mid '70s, Holmes was forced to close the performance stage. He kept the cafe open sporadically until a fire closed the doors for good in 1988. Johnny Holmes died in 2001. He has been since inducted into the Austin Music Memorial for his contribution to the Austin music scene.

In 2005, a preservation group worked to restore the Victory Grill to its former glory. As one of the few remaining Chitlin' Circuit juke joints, it is now recognized by the National Registry of Historic Places and the Texas Historical Commission. It was named a Texas Treasure by Preservation Texas. Today, The Victory Grill is open for educational programs that underscore the cultural importance of the venue, private events, and special gatherings. 

Cover photo credit: Cheryl Coward via Flickr

Victory Grill

MASS Gallery is a vibrant collective in East Austin. Run by an eclectic group of artists, writers, musicians, and educators, it seeks to promote work by local creatives. In its first four years, it was part of the Blue Theater Complex and produced more than 40 exhibitions. After building its reputation for large-scale projects, MASS spent 2010 to 2013 focusing on public and pop-up art. At the end of 2013, they moved to their current location, which consists of a 1,500 square-foot gallery, five working studios, and a retail store.

After receiving a $4,000 grant from The Idea Fund, regranted from The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, the artists of MASS Gallery created the Alley Cat Project in 2013. Wanting to activate often neglected and underused places in East Austin, they commissioned 12 works to be installed in neglected back alleys. Pieces in the project included street art, a triptych mural, dangling words and messages, and art woven into the surroundings.  For the entire year, these installations added a pop of color and surprise to ordinarily mundane spots and brightened places often associated with urban blight. Art transformed the alleyways and, with them, people's perceptions of the neighborhood. ​

MASS Gallery offers a wide variety of art exhibits, installations, and performances. From fiber arts to film, sonic experiments to mixed media projects, there's always something edgy and boundary-pushing on display here. Be sure to check what's on tap when you're in town.​

​The MASS Gallery retail space features art, books, zines and more. It is stocked with one-of-a-kind gifts made by exhibitors and other local artisans. Discover new talent and wow your friends with your finds.​

Cover photo credit: scenesfromatx via Instagram

MASS Gallery

Former airport morphs into a sustainable, affordable urban village.

Back in 1928, Austin residents voted to build a new airport. Named after a deceased city council member, Robert Mueller Municipal Airport began operations in 1930 and started offering commercial flights in 1936. It was located in East Austin, on what was at the time the very edge of the ci​ty limits.​

The number of flights at the airport increased as Austin's population and residential areas on all sides continued to grow. To meet the demand, a new passenger terminal and control tower with distinctive blue and white porcelain panels was built in 1961. Vice President Lyndon B. Johnson attended the dedication ceremony. Though the 1970s saw yet another major expansion to the airport, residents of Austin became increasingly in favor of building a larger, more modern airport outside ​the city limits. 

In 1999, the Robert Mueller Municipal Airport closed officially closed. It was replaced by Austin Bergstrom International Airport, located just five miles outside of Austin. For the next five years, the old airport site sat vacant. Runways turned into brown, unsightly, overgrown fields.​

In 2000, the City of Austin partnered with a developer to create a new urban village where the airport once stood. Built on the ideals of sustainability, affordability, walkability, and diversity, the plan called for a vibrant mixed-use community featuring residential and business areas compatible with the surrounding neighborhoods. The iconic blue and white control tower would stand above it all. ​

Today, the new Mueller neighborhood is home to approximately 13,000 residents. It employs more than 13,000 people, has provided 10,500 construction jobs, and includes more than 5,700 homes, 140 acres of public open area, and 4 million square feet of office and retail space. One of the most vibrant and inviting enterprises here is the bright red children's museum, The Thinkery.​

The Thinkery aims to inspire a new generation to innovate and solve problems creatively. The focus here is on exploration in STEAM: science, technology, engineering, art, and math. Moving into its new space in the Mueller neighborhood 2013, The Thinkery now encompasses over 40,000 square feet over two floors. Inside, the museum features hands-on learning in water dynamics, kitchen chemistry, stop-motion​ animation, 3D printing, circuits, nutrition, LED lighting, soldering, woodworking, aerodynamics and more. Outside, there's a huge climbing structure and colorful sculptures to enjoy.

The Thinkery caters to young people and adults alike. Families are encouraged to explore the museum together. There are also classes, camps, and birthday parties aimed at kids only. Over 21 and no kids to bring to the museum at the moment? Never fear. The museum offers Thinkery21 nights complete with cash bar, food trucks, and special topics so that grown-ups get to be kids again. Just think: The Thinkery used to be a runway, and now it's a fun new way to learn.

Cover photo credit: angeladrommer via Instagram

The Thinkery

Preserving Tejano history and culture in East Austin.

By the 1940s, due to segregation, much of Austin's Mexican-American population lived in the East Austin barrio south of East 11th Street.​ At the time, Austin's Hispanic population was 11%. Today, that number has risen to 35%.

​To help support the working class residents of the neighborhood, a Texas State representative experimented with social programs such as affordable housing, medical clinics, and a recreation center. Many of these still stand today and are included on the walking trail. And the man who helped create them? Eventually, he became President Lyndon B. Johnson.  

In recent years, East Austin has quickly gentrified. As a result, many of the original residents are being displaced, and with them, history was being erased. The Tejano Walking Trails were created as a labor of love by local neighborhood leaders and activists to preserve the past. The trails are divided into two distinct paths: The East Cesar Chavez Neighborhood Tejano Healthy Walking Trail and the Trail of Tejano Legends.​

The East Cesar Chavez Neighborhood Tejano Healthy Walking Trail is a 4.9-mile path that encompasses 22 culturally significant sites. They include homes, churches, schools, gardens, murals, and a recreational center. The project was recently designated a National Recreation Trail by the US Department of Interior with support from the National Parks Service.

The Trail of Texan Legends adds another 5.6 miles to the path and honors local Latino musicians who, in the 1940s and 50s, made significant contributions to Austin's music culture. There are seven sites found along this path, which features unique metal sculptures. This portion of the trail is best navigated by bike or Segway.​

The Tejano Walking Trails begin at the Emma S. Barrientos Mexican American Cultural Center. The project helps preserve historic sites and affordable homes, educate the public, and encourage a healthier lifestyle.​

Cover photo credit: lovefromatx via Instagram

Tejano Walking Trails

Quite possibly the best barbecue on earth.

Texas is known for its barbecue. And the best barbecue in Austin, Texas (and perhaps anywhere in the world) can be found at Franklin BBQ. Their brisket sells out every day, and here's why: ​

"It is the best. It is the finest brisket I’ve ever had." 
—Anthony Bourdain, "No Reservations"

Aaron Franklin discovered his passion for BBQ by hosting cookouts with his wife Stacy. His passion turned into a barbecue trailer in 2009 and the rest was history. Today, he runs Austin's most popular barbecue joint and even has an 11-episode web series produced by Austin PBS. 

Long lines regularly form to get a bite of the smoked meat from Franklin BBQ. Even back when the restaurant was a mere trailer, they sold out of product every single day. Chef Aaron Franklin makes 106 briskets daily, and these are normally gone before the posted closing hours. Watch the video below to see behind the scenes at Franklin with chef/owner Aaron Franklin.

Chef Franklin is the only barbecue chef ever to win a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Southwest. Even former President Obama is a fan. When he visited back in 2014, he reportedly headed to the front of the line ​but then bought food for everyone behind him. Franklin BBQ is open for lunch six days a week, from 11 am until they sell out, usually by 2 pm.​

Cover photo by Christopher Najewicz via Flickr

Franklin BBQ

Farm-to-table restaurant with historic roots.

In 1928, a city plan designated East Austin the "Negro District." African American residents who had been living for decades in other enclaves throughout the city were relocated to the neighborhood. There was no option in making this move. Municipal services (schools, sewers, parks) would only be offered to black people living in East Austin going forward.

Despite the lack of choice in the matter, the area began to thrive. By the late 1940s, there were 30 churches, 2 colleges (Tillotson College and Samuel Huston College) and 150 African American businesses in the neighborhood. 

One of the most successful businesses was Hillside Drugstore. It was owned and operated by Doc Young, Austin's first African American pharmacist. His wife and daughter Yvette ran the counter and soda fountain, while his son delivered prescriptions. For nearly 50 years, Hillside Drugstore was a neighborhood mainstay. 

The pharmacy closed in the 1970s and stood vacant for years. When local restauranteurs recently learned the historic building was available, they decided to open a new farm-to-table spot there that paid homage to the former occupants. Today, Hillside Farmacy retains the importance of its past while offering the freshest local offerings of today. 

The building is still owned by Doc Young's family. To respect and promote its history, designers worked with daughter Yvette to lovingly restore the drugstore. Today, the charming interior reflects the look of an antique apothecary. Tin ceilings, pharmacy cabinets and display cases, and little touches such as the medicine bottle salt and pepper shakers add to the ambiance. There is even a picture of Doc Young on the wall, and a cocktail on the menu bearing his name.

Hillside Farmacy focuses on small, shareable dishes using hyper-local ingredients. Many of these are picked up at small domestic farms or foraged nearby on the same day they appear on diner's plates.  Fresh oysters and peel-and-eat shrimp at the raw bar round out the fresh and healthy offerings.

Hillside Farmacy has a breakfast menu (weekdays), a brunch menu (weekends), and an all day/night menu. Five specials are offered daily, and there is an old-fashioned soda fountain featuring drinks available with or without alcohol and a scoop of ice cream. The dry goods area sells unique products produced by local businesses. At Hillside Farmacy, you can experience the past life of this historic building and neighborhood.​

Cover photo credit: katierromano via Instagram

Hillside Farmacy

Whiskey-slinging honky tonk in the Austin cowboy tradition.

In the 1870s, a cowboy named Jesse Lincoln Driskill rode into downtown Austin with money made from cattle driving. Though the town's population was just 11,000 at the time, Driskill was convinced Austin would soon become a political, social and business mecca, so he built a sumptuous hotel which cost the equivalent of $95 million today. It featured two entrances. The women's was quiet and subdued, while the men's led to a raucous bar, billiards room, cigar store and barber shop. It was basically Austin's first cowboy bar.

Cattle drivers like Driskill left their mark on the economic and cultural development of Austin. The teams at University of Texas at Austin are called the Longhorns. Barbecue remains a local favorite, especially beef brisket. The Capitol's lawn features the famous "Texas Cowboy" statue. And honky-tonks like the one at Driskill's hotel still abound.​

​But until recently, East Austin lacked its very own cowboy bar. But then The White Horse rode into town, offering laid-back unfussy food and tons of fun. Country, roots, and traditional Tejano bands take to the stage seven days a week. Crowds pack the bar no matter what night it is; older locals tend to enjoy Tejano nights, a more hipster vibe usually greets the rootsy players, but everyone is always welcome here. There are pool tables, just like at Driskill's, along with a popcorn machine and old-fashioned photo booth. And though The White Horse is missing the cigar and barber shops, it does have whiskey on tap inside and an excellent taco truck outside.

Another way The White Horse is keeping  Austin's cowboy past alive—they offer free lessons in the Texas Two-Step plus Cajun and Swing dancing several times a week. And because this establishment welcomes both genders, unlike Driskill's saloon, there are always plenty of available partners to practice some new moves with you​. Yee-ha!​

The White Horse brought a traditional honky-tonk to East Austin, filling a big void in the neighborhood. There's a real sense of community and authenticity here. It's a bar without any pretenses that offers up a whole lot of fun. ​

Cover photo credit: whitehorseatx via Instagram

The White Horse

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Tucson inspires a sense of freedom among all who visit. Freedom of thought and expression. Freedom to discover and explore. And the freedom to be yourself.

Essential East Austin

Victory Grill

Victory Grill

MASS Gallery

MASS Gallery

The Thinkery

The Thinkery

Tejano Walking Trails

Tejano Walking Trails

Franklin BBQ

Franklin BBQ

Hillside Farmacy

Hillside Farmacy

The White Horse

The White Horse

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